Entries about wildlife

Loaded up and ready for our 576km drive

And, as usual, we had a back seat driver

Last time we went to the Flinders Ranges, we travelled through the Barossa Valley and then on to Hawker. This time we let Gladys guide us and 'she' took us to Port Wakefield which has to be one of the least inspiring drives we have had. The drive on from there to Quorn was little better but it did gradually improve as we neared Hawker (for any new readers, 'Gladys' is our Garmin satnav and has such a prissy (male) voice that we nicknamed it Gladys).

The town of Hawker was proclaimed on 1 July 1880 and named after George Charles Hawker, an early settler, Commissioner of Works and a member of the South Australian Parliament 1858-1865 and 1875-1883 (thanks to Wikipedia and Aussie Towns).

The old Ghan (railway) line ran through Hawker and I had hoped to find where this ran but we were running out of time, so continued on into the Flinders Ranges. We were here in March last year but this time, although it is still magnificent country, it is much drier and animals and birds appeared to be less obviously abundant, although still enough to keep us happy.

We stayed at Skytrek Willow Springs Station which is excellent, with several good walks and a long 4WD trail which we did not really have time for and, in any case, were not game to undertake the drive in our hired vehicle in view of the constraints in the hire agreement! We stayed in the Overseer's Cottage which had been used for the School of the Air and was well equipped and very comfortable. On our last trip, we visited the ruins of Appealinna Station Homestead and have now found that Willow Springs Station is part of that original station, giving a sense of continuity.

The entrance to Skytrek Willow Springs Station

We arrive at the Overseer's Cottage

One of the original radios used for the School of the Air

On our first full day based there, we headed up nearby Stoke's Hill (the only place we could get a 'phone signal) and Judith was able to post
a Facebook entry from there just to keep in touch. We then revisited Wilpena Pound where we had a picnic lunch and then cruised back, stopping at Wood Duck Pond where we hauled our chairs out and relaxed for the afternoon, watching birds come and go and wallabies coming down to drink.

The mast on Stoke's Hill which we needed to get near to check emails¬

A view from Stoke's Hill

Wilpena Pound in the far distance with a relief map of the pound in the foreground on Stoke's Hill

Wallaby startled by a family of Grebes interrupting drinking time

Whistling Kite perched in tree by the pond

Whistling Kite soaring over the pond

When we got back to the cottage, we ran the tap for a cuppa but after a short time, our water then stopped. We reported this to the office and just about everyone on the station turned out to trace the problem and then dig up the pipe where the blockage had occurred (calcification). In the process, one of the guys managed to puncture the pipe so they had to charge around finding a long enough but thinner hose plus reducing joiners and we had water back on tap shortly after sunset.

Some of the guys waiting for the reducing joiners to be found

On our arrival, the owners had kindly made bookings for us for the mine tour at Blinman followed by lunch at The Prairie in Parachilna. On the way to Blinman we pulled off to see the massive rock formation known as the Great Wall of China.

The drive up to the Great Wall of China

Part of the Great Wall of China

Panoramic view of the Great Wall of China

The mine tour took us underground where we could see the old workings and the conditions under which the (mainly Cornish) workers laboured - obviously H & S did not exist back then! The town grew to about 1,500 people at its peak but after the mine closed as being no longer economical, the population dwindled to around 200 and is now about 18 (although there are 20 on the Progress Council as two local station folk have been co-opted).

A band of malachite, a copper compound, in the mine

View from underground to open shafts

We drove from Blinman through Parachilna Gorge to get to lunch. This gorge is another very attractive and interesting drive with more lovely river red gums lining the route. My favourite is still Brachina Gorge but this was most enjoyable.

River red gum in the gorge

View through the gorge to the ABC Ranges with our vehicle parked on the side

Once through the gorge, we left the ranges behind and drove through very flat country to get to Parachilna, where we enjoyed a shared platter of 'feral' mixed grill - kangaroo fillet, emu burger and camel sausage, the latter being surprisingly good.

The Prairie at Parachilna

Aboriginal art in the dining area of the Prairie

Our feral tucker - already carved by Judith for us to share

Having relaxed for a while in this rather odd place, we drove down to Brachina Gorge where we enjoyed the drive just as much as last time, although there was even less water at the Aroona River crossing than there had been last year. Nonetheless, it was a good spot for birds - it would have been even better if it weren’t for the Easter traffic! The camp grounds in the gorge are understandably very popular.

On our way into Brachina Gorge

A Wedgetail Eagle soaring over us when we stopped at the Arooma River crossing

It has been great to get away from 'city lights' and have a good view of the sky at night. Just now, we have had an almost full moon so although we have seen the stars more clearly, we haven't yet had a clear view of the Milky Way.

Having reached this far, it is now time for an update on why the road travelled is called the Explorers Way. The invention of the telegraph led to the next bout of exploration, including Burke & Wills' tragic attempt. In 1859 Charles Todd had the dream of an overland telegraph which would cross the continent from Port Augusta in South Australia to Port Darwin in the Northern Territory. This could then be linked to existing submarine cables to reach the rest of the world. At this time, it was taking several weeks for messages to be transmitted by sea. Various explorers had set out to find inland rivers, or dreamed of pastoral land, north of Adelaide, including Stuart's first expedition under the leadership of Charles Sturt. Stuart's second expedition, his first as leader (not counting various surveying missions that he had carried out), started in 1858. On one of these he had come across promising country north of the Flinders Ranges and his patron, James Chambers took out a holding which became Oratunga Station; it was from here that Stuart set out in 1858, financed by William Finke, with a squatter named Foster and an Aboriginal companion. On this trip, they travelled to the west of Lake Torrens and progressed for a considerable way before turning back when they were near Coober Pedy and could not find a source of water.

The following year, Stuart again headed north, this time with William Kekwick as his second in command, in search of a safe stock route. This time he travelled to the east of Lake Torrens and reached the site of present day Marree. He continued northwestwards finding more springs near the site of today's Oodnadatta. We are now headed for Marree (formerly known as Herrgott Springs, named after the artist who travelled with Stuart)

As I mentioned in the last blog, my nephew and his wife had never been to Africa so my brother managed to find a game reserve about two hours' drive from Paarl. Generally the Cape area is not renowned for its wildlife but Inverdoorn Game Reserve (near Ceres) offers the chance to see all of the Big Five (we saw all but leopard). It covers about 10,000 hectares of the Ceres Karoo and has about 1,200 animals. As well as the Big Five, it was especially good to see some Cheetah which are part of a rescue and rehabilitation project - beautiful animals. The main predators are, at this stage, kept separate from the antelope etc., but the reserve does offer an excellent introduction to African wildlife for anyone visiting the Cape and the accommodation looked excellent.

Zebra and foal and a Symphony of Stripes

Collage of Wildebeeste, Giraffe, Gemsbok, Eland, Black Springbok, Springbok and Cape Buffalo

Cape Cheetah

Barbary Lion

White Rhino

Two Elephants weaving their way between a clump of dead trees

As well as the animals, we saw a number of different birds, particularly around the restaurant area and as we left.

Ostrich

Garden and eating areas

Cactus in the garden

Cape Weaver

As yet unidentified bird

Bokmakierie

We enjoyed our visit here

On the way to and from the reserve, we passed through the pretty little town of Ceres and the nearby Michell's Pass which was named after its planner, Charles Collier Michell, then Surveyor-General of the Cape of Good Hope. The road construction was undertaken by Andrew Geddes Bain in 1848. On the westward route there are a few points where you can pull over and enjoy some great views. As we neared Paarl there were more stunning mountain scenes to be savoured.

Entering Ceres with some autumn colour

View from Michell's Pass

Railway line running through the pass

Some of the mountain ranges on the way back

While all the family were together, it was too good a chance not to have a day in Cape Town before four of the party returned to England. The waterfront in Cape Town is glorious and the Aquarium is a good place to spend some time before or after enjoying lunch at one of the many excellent restaurants. In the evening, Dave treated us to a potjiekos meal (food cooked in a "little pot") - delicious!

Northern Rockhopper Penguins

African Black Oystercatcher

Cape Fur Seal outside the Aquarium restaurant and view along the waterfront

Street entertainment

Camera=shy chap but couldn't resist the colourful headwear

Potjiekos almost ready

A few days later, for some strange reason, we hauled ourselves out of bed in the wee small hours to watch the full moon rise over the mountains opposite Dave's house. I have to say it was worth the bleary eyes, even if the photos weren't crash hot. The dawn light was beautiful.

Full moon rising over the mountains

The town awakes

A glowing dawn

After our early morning and after the others had gone back to England, Dave took us to the Taal Monument high on a hillside on the edge of town - when you drive into Paarl from the west, it is clearly visible. Afrikaans developed as a language distinct from Dutch which is its mother tongue or taal. In 1875, in Paarl, the Society for Real Afrikaaners (Genootskap van Regte Afrikaaners) was founded to strengthen Afrikaaners' identity and pride in their language. Fifty years later, Afrikaans was recognised as an official language of South Africa and fifty years after that, this monument was erected.

The monument comprises several towers and domes representing the languages which have contributed to the development of Afrikaans. Two of these (E & F on the official plan) are the parts of the monument clearly visible when entering Paarl. As you approach the monument, there are three columns (A) decreasing in height and these represent European languages, principally Dutch, German, Portuguese and English). Beside these columns are steps in the middle of which is another shortish column (C) which represents Indonesian languages and dialects (mainly Malay). The tallest column (E) is now ahead with a curving wall (D) to the left and, behind a low wall to the right, three domes (B). Beside column E is the lower but still tall column F. The domes represent Khoi and other African languages (isiXhosa, isiZulu and seSotho). The wall at D, curves upwards and forms a bridge which represents the fusion of languages and, where it joins E and steepens to form the tallest column, the increasing growth of Afrikaans. Inside E is hollow and at the top is an opening depicting the continued growth of the Afrikaans language. Finally, column F places Afrikaans in context with Africa, being in the birthplace of the language (South Africa) but with the north side open to indicate ongoing dialogue with the rest of Africa. (Most of the above information was obtained from a leaflet provided at the entrance).

Diagram of the monument

Columns A, C, E and F with upward curving wall D

Domes B and columns A with mountainous backdrop

Panoramic view from the monument with Table Mountain on the horizon

Inside column E

Columns E and F with column C on the steps and wall D to the left

Around the monument are well treed gardens with several information boards. The latter are all written in Afrikaans so we could only make out some of the words as we have only a passing acquaintance with Afrikaans. Dave does speak Afrikaans but it would have been rather time-consuming to have him translate, particularly as we were off in different directions in search of good views, flowers and birds! We were fortunate to find a lady who was very knowledgeable and provided all sorts of interesting information. The monument and the mountainside woodland are well worth a visit and afford excellent views as far as the back of Table Mountain.

Fiscal Flycatcher

Columns E and F from the back

Just a short way away is the Paarl Mountain Reserve (up the mountainside behind Dave & Pat's house). On the way up we saw a few protea then Dave dropped us to let us walk down about 400 steps through a kloof between two massive granite domes. The path beyond the bottom of the steps was supposed to be about 100 metres but Dave hadn't realised that one of the roads had been blocked off, so we had a longer than planned walk - most enjoyable though. On the drive back, Dave stopped for us to take photographs of protea (unfortunately many were past their best) and some of the views.

Red and white proteas found on the mountain (Protea Repens?)

Judith and Steve in search of the next flower - or bird

The start of the steps

Judith on her way down

Path at the bottom running between granite outcrops

Nantes Dam, a reservoir among the outcrops

View over Paarl from our walk and drive

View from our drive, showiing columns E and F of the Taal Monument below

The following day, we again were up for sunrise and have to provide evidence as it is an unusual event for us!

It really is worth being up early some days!

Once we had recovered from our early morning shock, Dave took us down to the Berg River where we had a lovely walk through the arboretum on the river bank, with some of Dave's friends for company for part of the walk. Apart from the exercise, some lovely trees and time with friends, the walk was also quite good for bird watching although some of the birds refused t be photographed!

The Berg River

A tree-lined part of the path

Grey Heron with Cape Cormorants

Flower on tree in the Arboretum

African Hoopoe

Juvenile Cape or Yellow Bishop

Judith and Dave with Dave's friends and some lovely autumn colours

Blacksmith Lapwing (used to be Plover)

Back at Dave's place we had a last flurry of birds, including one very inquisitive one.

Cape Robin Chat

Cape Turtle Dove

Red-faced Mousebird

Karoo Prinia

Laughing Dove finding things of interest on Steve's tablet

A day or two later, we were back in England our long holiday was over. However, I shall record in another blog some of the places we have visited in England and then next year, it is back to Australia - poor Jet Set is feeling quite travel weary so is having a well-earned rest.

Had we not overslept, we would have seen that Tuesday dawned fine! Anyway by the time we got going it was heading for another hot day, albeit with a slight breeze. We decided that we would go to Wilpena Pound but first drove to Station Hill Lookout from where we had good views of the ranges around the station.

Rwnsley Range

Elder Range in the distance

The scenery between Rawnsley Park Station and the turn off to Wilpena Pound was again very eye-catching but did not delay further and on arrival at the Visitor Centre, we bought tickets for the shuttle (walking was going to be hot enough without adding extra kms!). This took us to a trailhead and we chose the most direct route towards Hills Homestead. Along the way we saw kangaroos and several birds, some of which we even managed to identify at the time!

On the way to Wilpena Pound

Western grey kangaroo

Path leading back towards the trailhead

The Hills Homestead

The homestead is a reconstruction of the homestead that the Hills lived in from 1899 to 1914 when they were forced out, not by drought but by floods! The Pound itself had been 'discovered' by William Chace in 1850. The following year, it was surveyed by Frederick Sinnett and the lease was taken up by Henry Strong Price who owned the property until his death in 1889. The homestead is in a very attractive area of the Pound, close to the creek so would have been quite a pleasant place to live. From the homestead, we made our way past a Dreamtime sculpture up to the lower of the Wangara Lookouts which gave splendid views over the Pound. I have been unable to find any other information about the sculpture or the derivation or meaning of Wangara (other than as a Perth suburb!).

Dreamtime sculpture

View down to Hills Homestead

Panoramic view from the lookout

We walked back, with fewer delays than on the way in, caught the shuttle bus and enjoyed a picnic lunch, surrounded by a couple of ravens, a magpie, a yellow-throated miner and nine, very noisy, apostle birds.

The magpie had a beady eye on our food

Yellow-throated miner

One of the apostle birds

Now replete, we drove about 9km to the Bunyeroo Gorge Road. This is another unsealed and quite bumpy road but with magnificent views back over Wilpena Pound and with more amazing geology. The two lookouts, Bunyeroo and Razorback were well worth stopping for.

On Bunyeroo Gorge Road with Wilpena Pound in the distance

The Beast at Bunyeroo Lookout car park

View from Bunyeroo Lookout

Looking at the road ahead from Razorback Lookout

Two examples of the fascinating geology in views from Razorback Lookout

Once in the gorge itself, it was a case of must stop for the views, the trees, the geology and, to our surprise, more yellow-footed rock wallabies - what a delight!

A couple of views inside the gorge

Yellow-footed rock wallabies are so photogenic

Another part of the gorge wall

The drive took us through more beautiful scenery and finally joined the Brachina Gorge Road. As time was ticking by we decided that we couldn't make a repeat visit to Brachina Gorge, so headed east backwards the Flinders Ranges Way. Once again, we had to cross the Aroona River and again we stopped to see what wildlife there may be and again we were rewarded with some good sightings, a very productive spot for us.

Red arrow dragonfly

White-plumed honeyeater

Blue skimmer dragonfly

Female purple-backed fairy wren, in moult

A euro or common wallaroo by the river

Sadly, that was the end of our stay in Flinders Ranges and on a hot Wednesday, we made our way south-west. Someone we met in the area had recommended that we stop in Hawker to see the Jeff Morgan Gallery and this we duly did. It is not a large place, as galleries go, but has some truly amazing paintings. Morgan, understandably, specialises in painting in the Flinders Ranges but his hallmark is the production of magnificent panoramic paintings. The first we saw was of Ron's Creek, 15m long x 4.5m high and on the floor are stones and bits of wood etc., which run up to the painting giving a three-dimensional result. Similar effects were achieved with a panorama of Arkaroola Pan, 5.5m x 46m circumference. The first circular painting completed was Wilpena Panorama (3.5m high x 30m circumference), which shows the Pound as viewed from St Mary Peak and has a room to itself with a central raised viewing point. It really is an incredible piece of art. It has been formally recognised by the International Panorama Council which has recognised only about 70 circular paintings around the world, with very few having been completed by one individual (acknowledgements to the Jeff Morgan Gallery for this information). There is also a very good rock, mineral and fossil collection on display. We would certainly recommend this to anyone travelling in the area.

Our cabin at Rawnsley Park Station

The Beast at the entrance/exit for Rawnsley Park Station

The Jeff Morgan Gallery in Hawker

One of Morgan's panoramas

Panoramic view of circular painting (unfortunately, the canopy intrudes into the camera view)

Out of Hawker and on the road south, we again went through some pretty drear country in which we found a few ruins which are all that remain of the settlement of Wilson. In 1865, the Surveyor-General, George Woodroffe Goyder had drawn a line across South Australia showing where it was believed that, due to the likelihood of drought, farming was not safe. There had been god seasons in the 1870s into the early 1880s, defying Goyder's predictions, so settlers came to grow wheat and established the town of Wilson in 1881. There was no natural water supply but in spite of the return to the normal dry seasons, some people stayed on, some switching from wheat to sheep. These brave (or foolhardy?) pioneers struggled on until the last person left in 1954 and the town was left to gradually disintegrate.

Two of the ruined buildings

About half an hour further on, we came across Kanyaka Waterhole which was like a little oasis in the dry plains country. Apart from the well-treed waterhole there were also some interesting rock formations. As we approached the waterhole, we could see many birds but I slipped on some loose stone and everything within cooee vanished, so we have no wildlife photos from this detour!

Steve seeing if anything came back!

The waterhole

Two views of the weathered outcrops near the waterhole

By the time we reached Port Augusta, it was approaching lunch time, so we made for the Australian Arid Land Gardens where we had an excellent lunch in very photogenic surroundings.

Sturt's Desert Pea in flower

The ubiquitous red wattlebird

Not far from Port Augusta, as we drove west, we came across some roadworks and were mildly annoyed at the delay until we saw a flock of birds take off. Judith swiftly pulled into a handy layby and we watched the birds swirl around and then come in to land near our vehicle. It was a flock of banded stilts, a new bird for us so a pleasurable delay.

Flock of banded stilts coming to land

A little further on we could see a large cloud of dust and came across a very large mob of sheep being herded through the dry bush by the roadside by one bloke on a motorbike with a kelpie, which after some hot dry dashing around, took a ride on the bike!

The mob on the move

Kelpie hard at work

All sorted, the kelpie takes a break on the bike

Near Iron Knob, we saw some distant rain and thought we may be driving into it but it stayed on the range and we arrived in Kimba in the dry, although by then it was cloudy and windy.

Distant rain near Iron Knob

Other than being half way across Australia, Kimba did not impress itself on our memories, other than its Big Galah! However, it was fine for an overnight stop on our way to Streaky Bay.

The Big Galah